Fix 1: Check Force Click setting
System Settings → Trackpad → Point & Click. Verify 'Click' has a tick. Adjust 'Click Pressure' to Light.
If Force Click is disabled, you may need harder press than expected. Toggle it back on if you prefer the gesture.
Fix 2: Try tap-to-click as workaround
System Settings → Trackpad → Point & Click → Tap to Click ON.
Now a soft tap (no physical click) registers as click. Tides you over while diagnosing hardware vs software cause.
Fix 3: Restart Mac
Apple menu → Restart. Surprising how often this fixes trackpad clicks — driver gets stuck and reloads on boot.
Fix 4: Reset SMC (Intel only)
Intel: power off → hold Shift+Control+Option + Power for 10 seconds → release → power on.
Apple Silicon: no SMC, just restart twice in a row.
Fix 5: Boot in Safe Mode
Tests if third-party software interferes. Apple Silicon: hold power → Continue in Safe Mode. Intel: hold Shift during boot.
If clicks work in Safe Mode: identify third-party culprit. Common: keyboard/trackpad customisation apps (Karabiner, BetterTouchTool).
Fix 6: Check for swollen battery (very important)
Swollen battery beneath the trackpad lifts it physically. Symptoms: trackpad clicks feel weird, key feel weird, lid won't close flush.
STOP USING the Mac if battery swelling visible — fire risk.
Workshop service: battery replacement urgent. PKR 18k–35k depending on model.
Fix 7: Trackpad assembly itself failed
Software fixes all fail + no battery swelling + cursor still moves: trackpad mechanism is damaged.
Common causes: liquid spill that damaged the click mechanism. Heavy impact. Wear after many years.
Fix: standalone trackpad replacement (older Macs, A1502/A1466 era) PKR 12k–22k. Top-case replacement on newer Macs (trackpad is integrated) PKR 35k–80k.
External mouse workaround
USB or Bluetooth mouse works perfectly with broken trackpad — no software conflict. Cheap budget option while you decide whether to repair.
System Settings → Trackpad → can disable trackpad entirely so phantom inputs don't disrupt work.